My first attempt at meeting Martin Picard was not successful .
I was on the other end of a rejection email say , in so many Good Book , " It ’s not you , it ’s me . ” But I refused to accept this clichéd breakup line as my fate . Picard is a caption , a culinary lunatic known for highlighting local ingredients , incorporating Quebecois story into his impulsive yet bluff dish presentation , and most notably , things like duck in a can . And I , a womanhood of little height ( literally – I ’m 5'2 " ) , was on a mission : to land an consultation with Montreal ’s Wild Chef .
For months , I had been apprehensively awaiting the day of my booking atAu Pied de Cochon ’s renowned cabane à sucre , a 45 - minute campaign from the affection of Montreal . Seating for the intact season fills up within one night , but somehow , I manage a seat . I score the April escort on my calendar with a doodle of a tiny pig . I was impatient for this Clarence Shepard Day Jr. to arrive .
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It in conclusion came , and I was well - prepared for the singular experience of a multi - course spread from the mind of the Wild Chef and the subsequent foie gras - induced semiconsciousness that notoriously comes with it . From the three - level foie gras cake with maple butter , apricot jelly , and pistachio bavaroise to the most delicious sea snail , mushroom , and cheese chowder to the maple - bread pie finale , I was overgorge and quick to be rolled out of the simoleons shack when a very marvellous man walk by my table . His hair untamed , his nimbus intimidating , and his eyes laser - focused on everything in the kitchen , Martin Picard was merely metrical foot away from me . After find my courage via a gulp of my maple - cotton gin deglutition , I tiptoed towards him to ask : how about an interview ?
I marked the date on my calendar with a doodle of a midget pig .
" You need to write about me ? Are you going to be write about my contour ? " said Picard , laughing . He ’s not as intimidating as the reputation that precedes him might lead one to believe , it turns out .
It is a well - known fact that a repast at Au Pied de Cochon , the cabane à sucre or food truck , will be a calorie - laden adventure . With a menu packed with meat , foie gras , and fat - driven dish , this PDC trifecta is where diets go to decease . I had to know how foie gras had follow to take over Picard ’s animation and become an constituent synonymous with PDC .
“ It take close to three years to hone , and there is something gravid about the slowness it took , ” proudly stated the chef born in Repentigny , QC . " I learned how to cook foie gras at Marc Meneau ’s – a three - star Michelin chef – where I was an apprentice . There were mess of foie gras there . I was inspired by the abundance and the variety . "
“ I want to be a estimable host and cover guests with love and food . If that terminate up kill them , well … ” tell chef Picard with a smirk .
Though foie gras is objectively one of his most - used component , he would n’t call it his favorite . “ reckon on my mood , but maple syrup is a regular favourite . I opine it also bet on the season , ” he say . “ One day , I would care to serve foie gras whole in a steamed bun – Asian - style . ”
incorporate Asiatic ingredients and preparations into his menu is a direction the curious chef is begin to research in his own mode . In 2006 , chef Picard released his cookery book , Au Pied de Cochon : The Album , which included a formula , follow by graphic picture , of squirrel sushi . Rumor has it that he first began to experiment in the kitchen with the furred wight because they were destroying his cabane and he wanted to exact his revenge . The Wild Chef confessed he ’d like to create another Asian - inspired preparation for squirrel , bound only by the supplying range of mountains .
" If it was effectual , squirrel would definitely be on the menu . "
" By law , you may only eat squirrel that have been immobilise by a licensed trapper , " says Picard . " alas , it is hard to fudge , since it ’s difficult to supply . If it was legal and easier to find a provider , it would definitely be on the card . I do n’t have any other recipe at the here and now for squirrel , but I would love to eat them in a dumplings with a peanut butter sauce , ” contemplate Picard .
Though it ’s shocking that someone should dream of cook up squirrel dumpling , let alone beaver stuffed with its own tail , garnished with its question , and cooked in pig ’s ancestry and cream ; or how about an entire stuffed pig ’s straits that demand to be quest days before your reservation ( he only makes two every day ) , chef Picard does n’t aim to be provocative . He just fix whatever he ’s curious to try . But he take on : “ Believe it or not , I am not so warm to the estimation of cooking horse . ”
Before our good afternoon came to an end , I had to know if he revivify his friendship with Anthony Bourdain after his appearance onNo Reservations . Picard wassupposedto make little versions of some of his menu items . Instead , he made one of everything on his fatty carte in their original , gluttonous sizing for Bourdain . It ’s also been tell that Picard ’s exact words to his staff ahead of the show were " kill him . " Within minutes , Bourdain was clear feeling the foie sweats and have sex the Quebecois chef had ordered a smash on his life and the slaying weapon was intellectual nourishment . I joke that a peace bond between the two after the essay wakeless - sweetheart - and - alcohol murder would involve a mud wrestling equal , and asked Picard if he would let his adversary win .
“ Of naturally ! His married woman – as endearing as she is – is a jujitsu master and would destroy me , ” laughed chef Picard . “ I think I mostly please him rather than destroyed him that day . If I was in his 24 - hourLayover– I am certain he did n’t mind . ”
So remove me with solid food . I welcome my last with open arms .
As I prepared to exit with my in demand bow-wow bags filled with maple syrup and foie gras , I had one last question : what does he plan on doing next ? " I ’m going to delight what I have , " said Picard with a actual smiling .
He insisted his " culinary madman " role is very dissimilar when he ’s not in the kitchen . In fact , he ’s just a normal guy who like to explore food markets , speak to local farmers , and cook his family breakfast , no matter what prison term of day . " I love making a breakfast - style club sandwich with detail from the family electric refrigerator . It ’s always dissimilar , but it always has a breakfast bend , " said a agleam Picard .
With my questions answer , I lead happy and hoping there would n’t be any dealings on the style home – I was amount up on my food comatoseness . Picard ’s prophecy of sedating with good solid food was being carry out . But it was dainty to know the renowned culinary experimenter I finally got to meet is a genuine , dainty guy . So murder me all you want with food , Monsieur Picard . I receive my expiry with open arm .
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