I always root for safe restaurants to succeed in Santa Monica , but after years of dissatisfactory closures , I ’ve come to reckon of its dining view as star - crossed . On one side , the city is locked in by the sea , while on the other , it must contest with LA ’s dense sprawl and dealings , which often discourages many Angelenos from making the trek over here . Sure , they come for the beach and ocean breeze , perhaps to take out - of - towners for a stroll along Third Street Promenade , or – if they ’re under 30 – to hit up the Main St stripe creep . But unless they ’re Westsiders , not many feel like brave out gridlock and battle for parking for their stomach ’s sake – even if a celebrated and now shuttered restaurant like Aestus once served the best seared foie gras this side of the 405 .
Over the retiring few years , a handful of restaurants have opened in Santa Monica with well - deserved ostentation . But for every lustrous newbie , there ’s a prima eatery in the region that knuckle under to occlusion – whether it ’s a long - remain firm fixture like 18 - year - old Gallic bistro JiRaffe , or a relative newcomer such as the short - live on Cadet . Great eating house – not all , but many – ca n’t seem to make it here for very long , and we wanted to get to the bottom of it .
In some cases , the closings are in part due to a eating house ’s natural lifespan . Take Real Food Daily , whose original Santa Monica outpost revel a 24 - year discharge before shuttering in April ( the restaurant still has location in Pasadena and West Hollywood ) . “ thing turn , ” says owner / chef Ann Gentry , who pioneered organic , plant - base nutrient long before the health fury . “ eatery that have been around for two decades are going out of concern because you have a new generation who need something different . ”
Main Dining Room at Cassia|John Linden
It also does n’t help that the industry ’s notoriously knotty . Beloved Rustic Canyon , celebrating its 10 - year anniversary this December , only broke even in the beginning . “ It ’s a tight net gross profit margin commercial enterprise , ” allege Josh Loeb , the man behind the Rustic Canyon group of eating house , including Esters and Huckleberry . “ For the first couple years of Rustic , we were n’t work a whole lot of money . ”
However , even need into score the industry ’s ramp up - in struggles , Santa Monica ’s been dull to catch up to the dynamical eating place scenes in Downtown Los Angeles , Koreatown , and Silver Lake . There are sure enough gems , from full - serve places like Tar & Roses , Cassia , and Mélisse to take - out patch like Bay Cities and Sweetfin Poké . But among those who love to eat and explore new eating house , Santa Monica has a reputation as a mediocre epicurean finish .
Welcome to the tourist trap
Lately , even cordially receive , topically supported eateries ca n’t seem to keep their doorway open here . Some have enjoyed long - term term of office ( Monsoon Café , Border Grill ) and others scored decent run ( Hostaria del Piccolo , Rawvolution ) , but many barely endure one or two age ( Ciboteca , Cadet , Aestus , Maru ) . Santa Monica ’s proximity to the ocean , which induce it an alluring place to live and a tourist haulage , is both a blessing ( flip - flops year - round ) and a curse ( traffic galore ) . Although the increased metrical foot traffic from visitor boosts the arena ’s saving , it also intend importantly congested streets . agree to Jennifer Taylor , the city ’s Economic Development Administrator , Santa Monica hosted 8.3 million visitorslast yr ( as opposed to7.3 million in 2014 ) .
“ In the last 20 yr , Santa Monica has completely explode with tourists , ” says Gentry . “ The traffic is so much thicker that people do n’t want to will their ' hood . sure-enough customers of mine who live in Venice tell me , ‘ We do n’t require to cross Ocean Park or Pico because of the congestion . We just do n’t do it for anything . ’ For me , less topical anesthetic were coming in and my business was always based on local . ” Brandi Hackett , the General Manager of 1212 , which is house in the former Monsoon , agree : “ Trying to win over a local to get along to such a engorged area is hard . Why would a local want to fight traffic , devote for parking , and get through the crowd for a two - 60 minutes dining experience ? [ Also ] , the Promenade has n’t been traditionally known as a dining destination , so we ’re trying hard to break that stereotype . ”
The influx of holidaymaker also means the proliferation of shiny incarnate chains , which declare oneself out - of - towners familiarity and consistency . “ When I give 24 geezerhood ago , Santa Monica was a sleepy beach town , ” says Gentry . “ This was pre - Promenade . Then Starbucks came and made a Frappuccino . They pushed out the autonomous coffee tree shop , the noisome spot , and they got the competition to come , like Coffee Bean and Peet ’s . ” Then there ’s Santa Monica Place – once heralded as the city ’s crown jewel of a mall , replete with a spanking - new dining deck – which hemorrhages eating place ( casualties include Pizza Antica , Redwood Grille , and Xino ) . Now , its pridefulness and joy is a perpetually busy Cheesecake Factory .
Rustic Canyon|Emily Hart Roth
But while tourists may appreciate the solace and public toilet of chains , locals lust a little more diversity – leaving Santa Monica ’s dining scene in a tricky position . “ Cheesecake Factory ’s always cash in one’s chips to be the highest - grossing restaurant in the immediate vicinity of somewhere , but there ’s a lot of people living here , too , ” say Nick Meyer , the current Beverage Director at Sprout Restaurant Group , which includes Venice ’s Rose Café . “ There ’s a fine line you have to draw with being approachable but single enough to attract to locals . Cheesecake Factory will never have a Santa Monica - centrical ravisher ; they ’ll just have their embodied carte du jour that serves the low-toned common denominator . ” ( Mayer formerly direct up the beverage program at Santa Monica ’s highly regarded Brilliantshine , which closed in 2015 because of a reported mate split . )
“ Right now , Santa Monica ’s trying to show the eternal sleep of LA that it too is a dining scene to check out , ” says Hackett . “ There ’s a blend of boutique restaurants for locals and enceinte chains that tourist are comfortable with . I think in the succeeding restaurants here will start adjudicate to ascertain a felicitous medium . It ’s a hard market to be in when you ’re trying to make holidaymaker and locals happy . The local are what keep restaurant alive in the off - season , so if you do n’t invoke to them , you will never survive . ”
Parking and perceptions
Compounding the tourist and dealings issue ? The lack of approachable parking . Mayer recalls how even the Brilliantshine stave had worry finding spots , while Gentry says the situation has mature to be impossible over the class . “ It used to be well-to-do , ” she says . “ meter used to finish at 6 , now it ’s 8 or 9 . You ’ve got room more valet , so they take up spots . And look , nobody wants to go into the parking social structure because puzzle out is so bad . ”
Plus , Gentry brings up another deterrent : “ I know that homelessness is a terrible billet in our whole country , and it ’s certainly been accelerate in Los Angeles over the last five years in every vicinity . I know that no one matter is go to lick it . But it really had buzz off atrocious in the alley we were on . Ugly , insecure , and scary things were happening . That ’s not a cause to say , ‘ I ca n’t do business here anymore , ’ but it was a factor because of people ’s safety . We have a heap of very generous people in Santa Monica that finger for homeless people , but how about all the half-baked mass that came by [ my restaurant ] , the profanity , the flash ? You ’d call the police and that ’s ugly and you ’ve got that going in the front . Whether you ’re a local or tourist , nobody require that . ”
Regardless of the genuine impact of homelessness on safety , the perception entertain by many is that more homeless people equals increase crime . That could dissuade diner from visiting and new restaurants from opening in Santa Monica , which has a higher percentage of homeless people than other nearby affluent residential area . To put it in linear perspective , a2016 reportcounted 728 dispossessed individuals in Santa Monica ( grant to a 2013 nosecount , the city ’s population is 92,472 ) , whereasBeverly Hills , which gasconade a universe of 34,658 , andWest Hollywood , with a population of 35,288 , have a roofless count of 13 and 87 respectively .
Aestus restaurant
Rents on the rise
It does n’t take a tangible estate brain to figure out that doing business this close to the beach cost a premium , although according to former Aestus co - possessor Rex Licklider , rents are just as unconscionable in other suitable neighborhoods . “ [ Santa Monica ’s eminent rents do ] make it more difficult to thrive in such an environment , ” he says . “ The rent in Abbot Kinney , in Venice , Beverly Hills , and in parts of West Hollywood are evenly gamy , but many restaurants are thriving in those areas . I believe provision and demand will finally equilibrate out and rent will seek a reasonable level . ”
urban center official readily let in that high rents factor into many late shutdown . Former Santa Monica mayor Kevin McKeown , who currently serves on the City Council , state : “ When restaurants here nigh , it is often because their achiever spurred landlord to jack up the rents when leases expired . ” And harmonize to Taylor , the urban center has 396 dining organization , so competition is stiff . “ When multitude are spoiled for selection , it forces our business organisation to outride ahead of the curve and offer the highest level of calibre and armed service potential , ” she explains . “ Several of the restaurants [ that close recently ] were victim of rising split . When a long - terminus lease expires or comes up for refilling , the landlord has the ability to set up rents to market place rates . For some restaurants that have relish long leases at lower rates , this can be quite a impact and forces them to re - evaluate their stage business model and location . This job is not unique to Santa Monica . ”
By all accounts , Loeb ’s Rustic Canyon grouping is extremely successful , but even he experience cost - relate challenges when opening Cassia and Esters . “ unexampled legislating was passed midway through our urban center preparation permitting process , so we were delayed a year , ” he enjoin . “ The city worked with us toward the end , in enceinte part because we had relationships with them already . We still had issuing because the great unwashed were waiting on job and our building costs increased because we had to pay our architect and contractors for an extended work period , but we had other restaurants and our own salaries to live off of . We could wait it out , but most people , peculiarly a brand - new patronage , would n’t be able-bodied to . A pile of corporate chains would , but that ’s not who any of us really want accept over these businesses or building . ” Jacques Loeb worry that mom - and - pop music restaurateurs are n’t receive enough government support . “ Instead of someone from the city coming in with the mindset of , ‘ Hey , we require more independent businesses , so we are give way to hold their script through this process and have a vulgar good sense approach to expedite some of these things that are oppressive , ’ there ’s none of that . I think that ’s why a lot of masses carry into bother . ”
Santa Monica Place|Flickr/Kevin Labianco
Loeb credits a just landlord , a practiced lease , and goodwill in the neighborhood for Rustic ’s initial success . “ We had the time to figure it out , ” he says meanly . “ We ’ve been able to conform because we have multiple restaurants in Santa Monica and have a safe cut phonograph record has allowed us to negociate good business deal with landlords . ” But today , most are n’t as lucky . “ Some of the hoi polloi I be intimate who have had restaurants [ in the arena ] just started in a hole , ” he explains . “ They had to pass so much prison term run low through the permitting unconscious process , getting caught up in holdup , that by the clip they open up they needed to kill it from the beginning . But it takes a while to get your sea leg , work up your customer base , and become efficient in your kitchen and front of house . You ’ve seen that in a duet restaurants locally that closed within the first year even though they were well - regarded . There was n’t enough blank space for people to learn and no part of the metropolis has done anything to stand that . The rent ’s overly expensive for what you’re able to actually engage at unless you have a landlord who ’s willing to mold with you . ”
A city that means well
That ’s not to say the city does n’t have good intentions – which Loeb , a born - and - raised Santa Monica native , is quick to point out . “ The city has a big visual sensation for the way it require to manoeuvre , ” he say , referencing theLand Use and Circulation Element ( LUCE)of Santa Monica ’s General Plan . “ There ’s great poppycock in there about the environment , education , and so forth . When they verbalise about clientele , they babble out about businesses owned by locals . In theory , they want to support [ these businesses ] . They ’re not like , ‘ We only need corporate chains , ’ but there ’s not enough awareness of the [ challenges mom - and - pop spot face with ] dominion and regulation . Any fourth dimension you make the regulation for a business to operate hard and harder and you do n’t do anything to equilibrate it out on the other ending , the only people who can survive are those with deep pockets . If I ’m Starbucks and I desire a new location in Santa Monica , I can wait out a delay . If I ’m a mom - and - pop who ’s accept out a loan , I do n’t have the time . Most landlords will make you devote rent during that time . So while the City of Santa Monica does a great deal of great things for its residents , it does not do a good job of bear out independent line . The metropolis does n’t do it intentionally , but it further an surroundings where the heavy collective chains are intimately plant up to succeed . ”
It makes sense . After all , Santa Monica ’s corporate coup is happening in other metropolitan areas , too . Just like the federal and state governments , local authorities need to mother tax gross to provide table service to their constituents . And whether we like it or not , many conceive larger tummy are more stable receipts generator , so local law and regulations are tailor-make to attract the Starbucks , Gaps , and Apples of the world .
To its credit rating , the city has implemented policies intended to nurture restaurants , such as discounted sidewalk space . “ The outdoor dining licence fees are keep affordable in Holy Order to serve as an incentive , ” say Taylor . “ This help oneself eatery extend their profile , increase seating , and take advantage of the climate . It also helps to make our commercial districts active and vivacious , so it ’s a win - winnings . ” Taylor says the city ’s leasing insurance guideline , which apply to metropolis - owned attribute at the Santa Monica Pier and in Downtown Santa Monica , prioritize locally owned businesses . In the hopes of helping hoi polloi navigate the city ’s permit and permit process , they ’ve also developedresource guidesfor pop out a eating house or cafe . AndBuy Local Santa Monica , an ongoing gratuitous marketing campaign designed to raise awareness of local businesses , was first launched in 2009 .
Rustic Canyon|Emily Hart Roth
For chef and restaurateur Susan Feniger , whose venerable 26 - year - old Border Grill just closed its original Santa Monica location this October ( the restaurant ’s Downtown and Las Vegas joints remain ) , the city ’s been incredibly helpful . “ I feel like we ’re supported by the city emotionally , ” she says . “ I ’m in all probability the tough [ to demand ] because I ’m not that connect into everything , but whenever I ’ve needed to call anyone , I ’ve produce a response back . ” But while Feniger ’s been a fertile influencer in Los Angeles ’s culinary scene for quite some time – and likely has enough experience to navigate any operational difficulties – the metropolis ’s endeavour may not be enough to assist mom - and - soda water that are just start up out . “ When I opened Rustic , I did n’t really have any direct in operation experience , so it was a passably big encyclopedism curve , ” says Loeb . “ You should n’t have to have the strongest byplay acumen to open up your own eating place . That should be hold for people who have a vision and Passion of Christ , who want to wait on the community . ”
Passing up on the Promenade
Aside from the obvious , like helping ease dealings and increase parking , what else can the City of Santa Monica do to support homegrown restaurant possessor ? Feniger thinks the primal lies in developing less - traffic areas . She ’s already announced architectural plan to open a new , small ( and still Mexican ) concept in the neighborhood – just not by the Promenade . “ We ’re looking at a less touristed [ area ] , a little bit off the flummox track , so [ we ’ll ] maybe draw more locals , ” she says . She also has a personal interest in Bergamot Station , a hub of artwork heading by the new Metro stop . “ It ’s the most awe-inspiring place , ” she tell . “ I ’d love to see the city support that whole region because graphics is such an important part of culture . Citrus bergamia should be undefended and booming on Sundays . ”
Maybe that ’s why so many mummy - and - pop hopefuls are passing up the Promenade and adjacent areas . “ There ’s the touristed Santa Monica , like Ocean Avenue , the plaza , and Third Street , ” allege Loeb . “ Then there ’s the Santa Monica of our streets , our neighborhoods , where all of our restaurants are down Wilshire , and even some of the areas that do n’t have a lot of restaurants now but are cool , like Olympic , Colorado , and Broadway . ” Gentry , who identified matter with the landlord and edifice ’s substructure as the final deal breaker , is n’t against retort to Santa Monica one day : “ If I came back , I do n’t guess I ’d necessarily do downtown , ” she says . “ I see Wilshire as an choice . Twenty - four years ago , Wilshire was just a waste . It was a cluster of print places and letter paper entrepot , but now it ’s happen . ”
All the new development heading eastern United States might be a great thing for restaurants who want to attract regulars and make a local residential district . Mayer recalls how Brilliantshine ’s location , just outside the Promenade , allowed them to do so . “ That [ would be ] tough for a place on Third Street , ” he explains . “ It generate a little more neutral because of the bulk of people there for the first time and consequently for the last time because they ’re just passing through . ”
Chickpea Curry at Cassia|Flickr/T.Tseng
The future of Santa Monica’s culinary scene
Those who ’ve know or go in Santa Monica for a retentive prison term say that the city ’s come far , even if it may have lost some of its cool , indie cred along the way . “ [ The eating place ] have become more advanced , ” say Feniger . “ Blue Plate , Water Grill , Santa Monica Yacht Club , Milo & Olive – all these spot pour down up in the last five , seven , years . ”
When Loeb generate here after populate in intellectual nourishment - centrical cities like New York City , San Francisco , and Berkeley , he clear his was missing out on something : “ Santa Monica had some gamy - end , special - social occasion eatery like Mélisse and Michael ’s , ” he says . “ And then they had [ Numero Uno ] . There was n’t a whole peck in between . ” His solution was Rustic Canyon , which the community welcomed with opened arms . “ The history in Santa Monica is that you should n’t open a restaurant here because everyone eats at home , ” he say . “ The realism is that we do have approach to a great farmers market and loosely a lot of people have nice kitchens , so they can wangle at place if they want . They ’re not run to go out unless there ’s something desirable . But as soon as something is worthy , they ’ll go crazy . A lot of eating house , including ours , have watch that if you make something really respectable , people will go . Nobody wants to have to drive across Ithiel Town for a good eating place . So the community of interests here is very supportive of the eatery they love – at least in our experience . ”
Santa Monica has almost everything : beaches , balmy atmospheric condition , beautiful homes , laid - back vibraphone . But even with all of its spell , the metropolis ’s culinary scene still come up short compared to LA ’s thriving food destinations . ( Which is too bad , consider how much its residents revalue good food ) . “ I call back a great city is when you murder on all cylinder and the people , surround , independent businesses , and physical beauty is supported , ” explains Loeb . “ I reckon you require to have all those things go and it ’s the one part of the city that ’s kind of brushed off . We open up these eating house in Santa Monica because we love it and we wanted to have well place to go to , not just because we wanted places to own . We require others to open up great blank space here and it ’s frustrative when you see space taken up by corporate chains that do n’t have any soul or connection to the area . ”
Courtesy of Border Grill
The metropolis insist that despite these adversities , opening a restaurant in Santa Monica is still highly advantageous . “ For any challenge Santa Monica presents as an expensive , militant localisation , the benefits are greater , ” McKeown promises . There ’s no shortfall of people clamor to do line of work in this beautiful metropolis , including Makani Gerardi , who ’s the chef / owner of Pono Burger . “ We chose Santa Monica because we wanted to be a part of this residential area , especially because it ’s always exchange – from the increment of the tech segment to most recently , the new Metro line of descent . There are a bunch of restaurants here , but there are also a mass of people to flow , so we just focus on doing that and doing it with tending . ” Meanwhile , Licklider says that since Aestus close , he ’s received legion interrogation from restaurant operators about the emplacement . No wonder fresh incarnations keep pop up where Santa Monica restaurants shutter : Real Food Daily ’s been turned into another plant - based concept , Erven ; a modern Hellenic joint called Inotheke has set up workshop in the old Hostaria del Piccolo space ; and seafood restaurant Maré ’s taken up residence in the former JiRaffe .
Only time will tell if these dining governance will survive and thrive – and for the sake of our stomachs , fingers baffle they do .
Sign up herefor our daily LA email and be the first to get all the food / drink / sport Los Angeles has to offer .
The Third Street Promenade|Flickr/Andrew Rollinger
Courtesy of Michael’s Santa Monica
